Maui Surfer Girls

Women Big Wave Surfers

It's winter time and the waves are pumping in Hawaii!  Along with the arrival of the Humpback whales, who breach and displace masses of water, so do the winter waves on our Northshores.

As one may guess, surfing goliath waves have been dominated by watermen legends of the likes of Eddie Aikau, Greg Noll, & Laird Hamilton for years.  But don't underestimate the surging scene of waterwoman who are just as brave and also risking their lives for the thrill of surfing big waves.  In the past few years, Paige Alms, Keala Kennelly, and our team rider Andrea Moller, have been making a name for themselves in the big wave surfing scene. For example, check out Paige Alms historic Barrel ride at Jaws recently!

There's also an underground scene of surfer girls that shouldn't go unnoticed.  Maui women like our Brazilian powerhouse instructor Kiki Martins just towed into Jaws two weeks ago and has charged Maui's big waves for the past decade.  Another Maui Brazilian surfer girl, Maria Souza, was married to Laird Hamilton when he pioneered Jaws in the 90s.  She was the first woman to tow surf Jaws.  Maria also partnered with Andrea Moller to become the first female tow team at Jaws in 2005/6.

I've also had some mind-blowing Maui tow surf adventures with Andrea and Maria at Jaws, Pier One, and Spartans from 2004-2010.  We all do it not for the recognition, photos on Facebook and Surfline.com, but we do it for the pure rush.  Just recently this photo was taken of Maui's outer reefs lighting up from off-shore southwinds from a Kona storm.  This is as good as it gets for tow surfing!

"Spartans" in it's best tow-surf form!

Last week in the aftermath of our Kona storm, Andrea and I towed "Spartans" for the first time in 4 years!  I was reminded of the powerful rush of adrenyline that surfing big waves can produce.  My favorite aspect of tow surfing is how it becomes a team sport.  Since tow surfing involves a jet ski and a surfer, you learn how to communicate wave selection with your tow surfer, timing rescues in frothy whitewater, and watching each others back in massive surf.  I think it takes mad courage to be out in 15-30 foot waves with or without a jet ski assist -- I respect both paddle surfing and tow surfing equally.

On Friday, Andrea whipped me into some of the biggest waves I've caught this winter.  Despite being sick with a cold and hacking up my lungs, I couldn't allow a measly cold prevent me from surfing mammoth waves with my old tow partner.  It's so hard to coordinate busy schedules now, but in between Andrea picking up her daughter from school and my dogs vet appointment, we could only indulge in this beautiful outer reef ocean playground for a couple hours.  What a tease!  

When we arrived at Spartans, there was only one tow team with perfect 10-15 foot off-shore barrels pealing in. Literally our jaws dropped, as you can see from our selfie in the channel of "Spartans".   

Andrea and I are completely surf stoked to get on those big waves!

I love how this photo really shows how the waves lifts out of the horizon when a big set rolls in. We took turns for the next two hours whipping each other in to some hefty clean waves.  Tow-surfing together tested my jet ski driving skills (I was rusty after 4 years not driving a ski!) & after whipping Andrea into the 3rd wave, I started figuring out the timing, placement, and rescuing skills of driving the ski.  It almost feels like a video game, zig zagging and accelerating through massive walls of white water, searching for the channels to get back out to the waves forming on the outer reefs.

Hopefully I'll be luckily enough to tow surf with the underground Northshore Brazilian chargers Andrea, Kiki, and Maria Souza again!  It's been some of the best surfing experiences of my life and I'm forever grateful for all I've learned from these three Brazilian waterwomen.  

I'm so proud of our Maui surfer girls, representing women big wave riders.  We are paving the way for future generations of big wave surfer girls!  Keep your eyes on that swelling horizon for women bravely dropping down the face of some goliath waves globally!

 

Kiki Martins charging a sunset beauty at Peahi "Jaws".

Andrea Moller tucking under the lip of a perfect wave at the Point at Hookipa on January 12, 2015

Dustin Tester bottom turning on a clean wave at the Point, Hookipa on January 12, 2015

 

Andrea and Dustin post paddle in surf stoke at Hookipa

Photo Credits:  Jimmie Hepp, Pataorazzi, Hugo Valente, Andrea Moller

Hawaii Surf Camp

Maui Surfer Girls is the first all female surf camp in Hawaii.  Since 2001, "MSG" has been leading the surf camp industry in both surf instruction & providing well-round programming to empower teen girls both in and out of the water.  Each July, girls from around the world gather at our ocean-front facility, "Camp Olowalu", to enjoy the warm waves that roll into Maui's west shore.  MSG is based out of Ukumehame Beach Park, "1000 Peaks" - a perfect wave for both 1st timers and intermediate longboarding.  

In our 14th year, we had girls attend all the way from Switzerland, Canada, & Hong Kong.  We also offered Maui residents a chance to attend with our scholarship fund through the Will Smith Foundation.  It's one of our missions to offer opportunities for deserving girls from Maui to meet girls from around the world and share in the joy of catching waves, while learning from each others diverse backgrounds.  

Here's some of our favorite photos from our 2014 camp!

The traditional Hawaiian way to pose with a surfboard - All 36 of us posing in front of our oceanfront facility!

Luna, our camp mascot & surf dog with camp founder, Dustin Tester

Girls having fun at Kaanapali Beach on the hot dog inflatables

Our traditional sunset trip to the top of Haleakala National Park, our 10,000ft volcano.

Our 2014 2-week session looking pretty for our camp luau on our last night together

To check out more photos from 2014 check out our flickr page!

Maui Surfer Girls Trip Advisor

 

Since June 2013, Maui Surfer Girls has been rated #1 on Trip Advisor for activities in Lahaina & out of 349 activities in Maui, MSG is rated #3!  Without the hard work and dedication from our team of MSG surf instructors, Sharky, Kelly Potts, Jedi White, Lucy Woodward, Gaby Barsotti, Gina Mills, China and Billie, we wouldn't be rated so highly on Trip Advisor.  We are so proud of our online reviews that we wanted to share some of our recent testimonials & quotes:

 

"Five Stars is NOT enough to rate how absolutely fantastic the Maui Surfer Girls are...Kelly and Sharky from the first introductions made them feel safe and confident and their outward excitement for them fed the girls' confidence even more! All of the instructions and conversations were positive, full of compliments, and had strong encouragement. At the end of our lesson our daughters did not want to get out of the Ocean...Now they both want to become Pro Surfers and Surf Instructors for MSG. MAHALO Maui Surfer Girls you are our Maui 'Ohana (Family) !!!! We will NEVER even consider another company."

 

"There's no reason not to book with Maui Surfer Girls. The location is great, instructors awesome, and overall the operation is very professional."

 

"We booked a group lesson and had Jedi as our coach for the day. He was a "totally tubular" coach. We loved how educated and protective he is of the ocean, while also being laid back and and fun. ...One more thing we liked was not having to carry our boards all over town (like in some other surf schools) - they instructors had them all lined up for us and then took them from us as we exited the water - it was a little thing, but hey we were on vacation after all and don't want to be lugging boards after we're tired from surfing. Thanks Jedi!"

 

"This is somewhat of an unusual review, because our kids did not wind up getting to take a lesson from Dustin. However the way this situation was handled impressed me so much that I wanted to write a review so others could see the integrity with which Dustin runs her business...That morning when we got to the lesson, Dustin told us that the waves were just not right and that she did not feel she could charge us for a lesson...Dustin's integrity and commitment to doing things the right way, even if not the best for her economically, was impressive. "

 

To read more reviews or leave one about us check out:  Trip Advisor  

Surf Therapy

It's the Maui Surfer Girls' mission to empower girls and women through surfing. As an instructor, it's one of the most gratifying parts of our job to witness the full spectrum of joy, confidence, and healing that catching a wave can bring into the lives of our students. Just recently, Kelly and myself had the privilege of teaching a very brave and tenacious student who took a week of surf lessons from us after winning her fight against breast cancer. Since it's Breast Cancer Awareness month, I asked our student, Nancy, if she'd share her inspiring story with our MSG community. Here's what she had to share:

October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month – a fact that registered dimly at the edge of my awareness last year, but this year, was front and center in my mind. Because this year, October was also the month I chose to celebrate the end of my 9-month long battle with breast cancer. My diagnosis in mid-January was followed by a bilateral mastectomy, 5 months of chemotherapy, and 6 weeks of daily radiation treatments. There were sleepless nights, lengthy tests and procedures where I had to lie still, and many days when I felt too tired and ill to do anything but lie in bed and pet my dog. One of the things that got me through all of the misery was daydreaming about surfing. I grew up in southwest Florida where waves of any kind were rare, and I never had any formal instruction in surfing, but somehow I managed to catch a few - enough to know the thrill of being propelled across the face of a wave by the mighty and mysterious ocean. Its hold on me was strong. After 25 years of living in cold, landlocked places and enjoying other kinds of recreation, this was where my mind went. I resolved that when I was well enough, I would surf again.

So when that time came, I looked for a surfing school that would help me make that daydream a reality. I did quite a bit of research, because I wanted sound instruction, guidance to appropriate spots and waves, and especially, instructors who would meet me where I was, skill-wise, and take me further – yet gently. When I found Maui Surfer Girls on the web, everything clicked: a founder who was an outstanding surfer yet made it her mission to introduce young girls to the sport and had a surfing dog would surely have excellent, understanding instructors! I booked 4 days of private lessons and airline reservations for Maui. Of course, I was still a bit nervous about how things would be in reality.

That all washed away in the warm Pacific during the first minutes of my surfing lesson with Kelly. She was amazing – taught me the basics in a quick land lesson, made sure I understood by having me demonstrate, answered all of my questions, and out we went into waves that were just right for my skill level. Dustin had already picked a perfect board for me. In the water, Kelly continued to be wonderful: she guided us to the right spot to catch waves, coached and encouraged me, and trouble-shooted my mistakes without ever making me feel embarrassed. In between sets, she shared knowledge about surf spots, technique, and etiquette – not to mention facts about Hawaiian culture, which she’s studied, and about places to visit on Maui. Thanks to her, I had some wonderful rides, and I also had the good fortune to occasionally watch her surf – gracefully demonstrating all the things she’d taught me. That awesome day was repeated three more times – except on two of those, I also got to surf with Dustin and Luna, her amazing surfing dog. She too was incredibly knowledgeable and supportive, and it was total fun in the water with Luna. I thanked her for her vision and hard work in establishing Maui Surfer Girls and told her the truth: that she and Kelly had made my dream a reality. What a wonderfully healing, empowering way to celebrate my recovery!

Mahalo, Maui Surfer Girls!

Thank you for sharing your story with us, Nancy! And for showing us how to be a graceful and courageous surfer in and out of the water!

 

Posted with Blogsy

Maui Surfer Girls Scholarship Opportunity

Growing up in Maui, I found myself bored a lot until my dad got off work in the summers.  I'd whine, beg, and plead for him to take me surfing, body surfing, skimboarding, anything to save me from all those hours of brain numbing TV.  My body needed movement and a good dose of adrenyline that the waves always supplied me with.  The ocean was my best friend and a perfect outlet when I struggled with my parent's divorse. How I longed for a community of surfer girls to connect with during my summer vacations with my dad on Maui.  

For thirteen summers, I've been so fortunant to live out this childhood dream.  As our camps become more successful, it makes me more motivated than ever to provide life changing experiences for Maui girls while bringing them together with other girls from around the planet at our beachfront facility at Camp Olowalu.  It's truly been my dream childhood surf camp come true!

MSG has been offering scholarships through the Maui Boys and Girls Club, when donations filter in for the past 7 years.  This year, with the help of The Will Smith Foundation, we were able to offer the most scholarship help yet -- 3 full scholarships.

We selected Maui girls according to financial need, their essay explaining their enthusiasm for surfing and MSG and how they intend to "pay it forward" in our Maui community.  Here's who we selected this year.

Sofia from Kihei is one of the few competitive female boxers in Maui.  Her single mom wanted a supportive all female environment for Sofia to shine and become a more well-rounded athlete.  Sofia was a charasmatic camper, who was kind and encouraging to all the girls at our camp.

 

Sofia piggy backing Keala, our youngest camper.

Kawai grow up between her two divorsed parents from two different worlds, her mom in Australia and her dad in upcountry Maui.  She already had surf experience in Australia, but after moving to Maui she rarely surfed, as she lives in a very rural area of upcountry Maui, an hour from the beach.  Kawai transformed at camp from being shy to making lots of new friends.  She taught other girls to be brave in the surf like she is. She mentioned to us that surfing is her medicine.  

Kawai making new friends in her surf pod

Mikayla is a born and raised Maui girl, who just needed a little girl power support to get her on a surfboard.  She has two brothers that she spends most her time with in the summers.  She appreciated a break from them so she could pursuit her passion for watersports.  Mikayla wrote,

"This summer was amazing. All of the girls were so nice to me and I felt so welcome. It was such a fantastic experience for me because I really don't get to surf a lot because of school and sports.... Maui Surfer Girls you have helped me so much I can't thank you enough for teaching me how to surf and how to be kind to others."

Mikayla sad to leave camp, she serenades all her friends as they load up for the airport.

 

With the support of our alumni parents, students of our surf school, and our Maui friends and family, we will be able to continue our scholarship fund for deserving Maui girls.  It's been a rewarding experience for all of us Maui Surfer Girls staff to plant the seeds of self confidence in girls from Maui and beyond our shores!  Help us continue to do good work in our communities and donate to the Will Smith Foundation!  Now we'll have to keep tabs on our scholarship girls to see how they pay it forward in our community.

 

2013 Camp Highlights: Part 1

Session 1 was a HUGE success, but we miss our session 1 campers so much! Now, the fun continues with our session 2 campers. Adventures are being had and memories made. Here are a few of our favorites!

Opening circle and speed dating. For the 13^th year, the Maui Surfer Girls paddled out from Olowalu beach, formed a circle in the water on their boards, and officially started their camp sessions. Talk about an original way to kick things off! Our first session girls also had fun getting to know each other through an icebreaker known as “speed dating.” In this activity, each girl met and talked with a different girl for a little bit less than a minute. It was not enough time to really get to know each other, but enough time to break the ice and move past any awkwardness due to being strangers.

Flying high. Every day, our campers go on afternoon activities after their morning surf patrols. Sometimes, these activities are a mystery with a title that provides a clue to what it is, but doesn’t give it away. One of these mystery activities was called “Flying High.” Girls speculated about what they would be doing, with guesses ranging from zip lines to bungee jumping. They were all surprised when the vans drove up to Emerald City Trapeze and Arts; they were going to fly high on a trapeze! Decked out in crazy costumes from camp, the girls learned how to fly through the air with the help of the experienced trapeze artists. 

Giant sleepovers under the stars. The girls take their mattresses and bedding out of their cabins and arrange them together on the lawn. What’s better than falling asleep to the sound of waves softly crashing against Olowalu beach and waking up with the Maui sun?

Staff skits.  Our staff members aren’t afraid to “break a leg” when they get a chance to get in the spotlight. Decked out in crazy costumes and wigs, they came together and demonstrated the dos and don’ts of camp. No need to make learning camp rules boring!

Make sure to follow the fun with daily updates on Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter. We share different stories and memories on each, so make sure to check in often!

Summer Camp Tips

We at Maui Surfer Girls are in our 13th year of summer surf camps, and we've learned a few things through the years that may be helpful for parents and kids going off to camp this summer. Here are 5 especially important tips to kick-start your camp preparations!

1.  Prepare your kid to let go of technology.  

Not all camps are as strict as ours, but we don't allow iphones, ipads, itouches, or anything that connects to the internet  (besides our once a week "Parent Day" to call home). We view summer camp as an opportuninty for kids to connect with nature, not with facebook.  It's a great place to make new friends and practice social skills that are invaluable in life. Giving up technology for a week or more for kids can be a very challenging adjustment. Make sure you prepare your kid by giving them a good book or journal, and review tips on making new friends without the help of instagram or other social media outlets.

2.  Pack wisely.  

Don't send your kid to camp with two suitcases of stuff they may never use, but will have to keep track of. Pack lightly using the packing list provided by the camp. Our camp is always bombarded with bins of lost and found items that never get claimed. Initial all clothing so that they get it back at the end of camp.

3.  Be up-to-date and accurate on your medical form.  

If your kid has even the slightest of medical concerns, don't assume it won't be an issue at camp. One year at our camp, a camper had an excersize induced asthma attack. It was so serious that we called an ambulance. We reviewed the medical form, and the parent never mentioned the asthma while also sending her kid to camp without inhalers because she hadn't had an asthma attack in years. Please note food allergies, medications, even mention the possibility of sea sickness (our students sometimes need dramamine at our surf lessons!) Especially be honest about psychiatric medicines, despite the stigma. The camp directors need to know things like how long the camper has been taking the meds and what we should expect in terms of side effects. Does a camp nurse or conselor need to monitor the medicines they're on?  

4.  Reiterate hydration.  

Drinking Starbucks and Redbulls on a daily basis prior to camp is setting your kid up to go through caffeine withdrawls and dehydration at camp. In 13 years of camp, we've had a few girls get so dehydrated that they needed IV's..despite reminding them to drink water daily! The common thread of these severe dehydration cases were two things:  they were only drinking sodas and caffeine drinks prior to camp, or they just refused to drink tap water at camp. Our camp is away from convenient stores to purchase bottled water every day. Other camps may be the same. Prepare your kid to drink tap water so that they can enjoy camp and not dehydrate themselves during all the fun activities in the sun.

5.  PMA!  

PMA, or a Postitive Mental Attitude is key to having the adventure of a lifetime. If your son or daughter views their upcoming summer camp experiences as a way to make new friends, gain new skills, and instill confidence in their lives, they are more likely to get the most out of their summer camp experience. Homesickness will naturally come up for kids, but distration and continuing to be engaged with all the fun activities will often help them get through homesickness, especially if they have a PMA.

 

Hopefully these tips are helpful in getting your happy campers prepared for their upcoming summer camp experiences!

 

Surf Yoga

Surfing and Yoga go hand in hand!  It's the perfect complimentary activities, where one benefits the other to create a perfect mind, body, spirit connection.  Surfing requires focus, agility, and connection to ones core.  As does yoga.  This doesn't mean that if you have no yoga experience, you won't be able to surf.  I've taught hundreds of students that have no experience in yoga or surfing, but were able to stand on their surfboard during their first two hour class. However, if you're interested in learning or wanting to improve at surfing, take a yoga class or two to work on your flexibility.  This will help you progress as a surfer at any level.

Throughout my years of teaching, I've witnessed incredible progress in students who have some experience in yoga.  My pop-up technique includes practicing three yoga positions - "up dog" or "cobra", "down dog", and "warrior" positions...otherwise known at the "Sun Salutations" in yoga.  If you've never taken a yoga class, no problem. In my land lesson, I go through how to do each of these postures, which helps my students get flexible enough to go from the laying position on the surfboard to standing.  

 

The latest rave now is SUP yoga!  This is practicting yoga postures on the deck of a stand up paddleboard, while balancing on the water.  It's a great way to combine yoga with an ocean sport like "SUP".  With a wide and stable SUP board, you'd be surprised at how many yoga positions you can do on the water.  It's a great core strengthening workout, while improving ones focus and balance. Maui Surfer Girls is now offering SUP Yoga at Ukumehame Beach Park at 7am on Fridays.  So the folks that live in Maui or visitors can join us every Friday!

 

 

Experience for yourselves the great combination of two activities that will undoubtedly calm your mind and invigorate your body:  surfing & yoga! 

 

 

Developing Self Esteem in Girls

In this technological world where we are getting more and more separated from each other and nature, it is even more vital for our minds and bodies to connect in nature within a community of others.  I think this is why we are seeing more and more retreats, camps, and outfitters with an eco-tourism and personal development component. 

 

For the past 13 years I’ve had the privilege of running an all girls surf camp every summer, as well as a year around surf school for girls and guys.  We’ve had hundreds of teen girls attend from around the world at our little oceanfront cabin facility on Maui’s west shore.   There’s been one common thread through the years -- girls really thrive in and out of the ocean when they are surrounded by other girls and female mentors.   They are thirsty for self expression, self reflection, and self confidence.  Peer and mentor acceptance are also vital in developing their strengths and unique qualities.  Especially in this crucial window of a girls self-esteem development, their teen years can be a brutal coming of age time where bullying at school and on social media sites are more and more common place.  Having a safe refuge away from facebook, parental pressures, boyfriends, temptations with drugs and alcohol…sometimes summer camp is the only place a girl can develop their strengths and sense of self in a non threatening environment. 

For parents of a teen girl, here’s a few of my coaching tips for building a competent and confident surfer girl in and out of the water.

 1.  Develop her passion – whether it be surfing, a hobby or academic subject, having a healthy outlet           when she’s got boy problems, hormonal shifts, peer pressure, or stress, it’s vital to do what she               loves.   Having something to focus on that brings joy into her life can defeat depression and low self-       esteem.  Becoming good at something she loves is the building blocks to confidence that brings more       and more happiness and opportunities for success into her life.  Even participate in her passion or             hobby to show her you care for what she’s interested in.

 2.  Encourage time spent in nature – Any time a girl can unplug from her iphone, tv, computer, is                 valuable time connecting with her true self and feelings.  It’s like pushing the reset button on your         computer.  It refreshes her to make solid decisions based on what her gut is saying and not what             someone else wants for her.  Developing a sense of inner peace through time spent alone in nature is       a valuable tool to her success.  Surfing is the perfect way to do this.

 

 3.  Teach and model a healthy lifestyle, especially eating healthy.  To be successful at surfing or any           activity, a girl must fuel her body properly.  Our meals at our surf camp are the perfect fuel to our         active days:  fresh mangos, oatmeal, salads and sandwiches, quinoa and vegetables, burrito bar,             Hawaiian food at our luau, among other healthful meals. 

 4.  Develop open communication with your teen girl.  You don’t have to be her best friend and have her       divulge her secrets to you, but make sure you are available frequently to listen and connect with her       authentically.   Despite her wanting to push you out of her life, give her lots of hugs and express that       you are here for her no matter what.  Unconditional love & a present parent can go a long way for a       teen girl’s development.

 

I’m not a parent of a teen girl, but a mentor of many.  I’ve seen through the years that these tools above have been helpful with my own journey coming of age.  When I was a teenager into young adulthood, I struggled with low self esteem and depression.  If I didn’t have my surfboard and varsity sports growing up, I would’ve been miserable.  Even growing up on the beautiful beaches of Maui, seemed to feel dulled by my depression.  There is something very invigorating, and biochemically uplifting to our brains and psyche’s when we spend time being active in nature, especially the cleansing power of the ocean.  It’s been my life mission to share the gift of surfing and our active Maui lifestyles with future generations of teen girls at our surf camps as well as families, couples, guys and girls of all walks of life at our surf school.   Sometimes just one two hour surf lesson can plant a seed of confidence & invigoration to become more active in nature in ones daily life back home. 

 

So what are you waiting for?  Let’s get our teen girls active by sending her to our surf camp or signing up for a surf lesson while you’re in Maui!

Pro surfer Melissa Proud & Anae at our surf camp

Florida Ironman 2012

What was I thinking attempting a full Ironman recently?  With no triathlon experience, an old ankle injury, and a restless mind, this Maui surfer girl was in way over her head. My girlfriend has done three prior Ironmans and said she'd help me train for this Florida one, saying "Hey it's the easiest Ironman course on the circuit. Go for it!"  I wouldn't put "easy" and "ironman" in the same sentence, but I admit, I've used "small Jaws" in a sentence to describe some of my sessions at Jaws.  Surfing Jaws is one thing, the ironman takes super human stamina and this ADD brain would have to focus on a task for seventeen hours, ya right?! I must be crazy to test these limits in myself?  So for the past year, Chrissy and I have been training hard together.  We've travelled to outer islands for bike rides.  We've done ocean swims with our dog Luna and masters swim workouts in the pool.  We've ran before sunrise to avoid Maui's heat.  The preparation and pre-race jitteres were harder than the race in my opinion.  Finally it was time to pack up our gear and head to Panama City Florida.

 

The swim was INSANE! Well really the 112 mile bike ride followed by a marathon was equally nuts! But as an avid waterwomen, I got a big thrill out of swimming with three thousand athletes on that two mile rolly ocean loop. What a rush to swim in a sea of neoprene and bright green and pink swim caps.  While taking in the moment, I literally took in gulps of sea water with every other breath.  The ocean was morning sick the day of the race and it was making me sick too.  Luckily I trained in Maui's rough waters so I felt right at home (besides swimming in a full wetsuit).

 

One of my favorite images during the swim was seeing the sunrise between the high rise condos along the Florida coastline between strokes.  The sunrise calmed down my adrenaline.  It seemed so surreal that I was in the middle of three thousand swimmers in sixty degree water attempting my first triathlon.  When three hundred days of the year I'm in a bikini floating on a surfboard with a few students in tow. This was far from that peaceful ocean. I ended up surprising myself when I later learned that I finished the swim in a decent time: one hour and fifteen minutes – twenty third in my age group.

 

 

Ahh the bike. It was a relief to start the bike.  I trained mentally and physically the most for the long ride ahead. I knew I would spend at least seven hours in the saddle and in the aero position primarily since it was a flat course.  I got a little worried about my pace, when in the first mile of the bike ride, a middle aged woman blew past me riding a spiffed out “Huffy-style” bike with a kickstand on it.  I later coined her “kickstand lady” and surprisingly never saw her again. 

 

 

112 miles of flat highway miles = BORING! But I learned to amuse myself along the way.   Lucy Woodward, our MSG surf instructor and a multi-continental touring cyclist, suggested I play memory games while I rode.  She said I'd be entertained for hours by picking a random date in my life and recount what I was doing and feeling on this date.  It sparked a flood of entertaining memories, but this ended up occupying maybe one accumulative hour. I believe I recited my favorite Yogananda affirmation for psychological success at least twenty times.  Exhaustion and delirium were setting in.   But oohhh the relief I felt getting off that bike seat in the transition area.  It was all I could do to peel off my sweaty bike shorts and put on my running shorts and shoes.

 

Ohh the marathon! Being that my doctor told me I couldn't run on my ankle again after my fall - I was scared to put it through the marathon.  Little did I know that my lower back and hamstring threatened to seize up on me for most of the marathon before my ankle gave me trouble.  I could barely walk upright after being in the crouched over aero position for seven hours.  On the first mile of back pain I began to question if I'd even finish.  Then I remembered what my physical therapist told me.  The minute a negative or doubtful thought entered my mind, replace it with a positive stream of thoughts. Or in my case, talk to others in the race and make new friends! By the end of the race I had new facebook friends, a lot of life stories, and buddies who shouldered each others pain to the finish line.  

 

The run was two-13 mile loops.  Hearing the cheers of the crowd, city lights, and “you are an Ironman” echoing through the course was like a mirage.  The lowest point of my race was the moment I realized that these people weren’t cheering for me.  Sadly the people cheering didn’t know who was finishing and who was on their first lap. I had to say a couple times, “Thanks but I’m on my first lap.”  I’ll never forget on mile 14, mentally struggling to cope with the second loop, this little boy looked me square in the eyes and said in the most sincere, enthusiastic tone, “You are going to be an ironman!”  I believed him and got another wind of energy.  

From mile 15 until the end, I realized that this is anyones race.  I witnessed the fittest athletes on their hands and knees puking on the side of the course. Then I’d walk/run with several fifty-sixty year olds and athletes twice the size of me.  I gained strength from witnessing the incredible willpower of all these athletes.  I even saw a woman in full fire fighter gear with a tank on her back running this marathon.  What an inspiration!  If she can get through this race, then I could get through my spasming back and hamstrings, arthritic ankle, and the incredible chaffe between my legs.   Thank God for vasoline! 

 

A parade of goosebumps ran up my legs when I heard with great relief and almost disbelief…“You are an ironman!”  The announcers voice resounded louder and louder through the lit up streets.   My footsteps became more perky along with my conversations with two other athletes that had carried my hopeful spirits and long winded stories to finish this race.  

 

On the last 100 yards of the race, a blue barricade on either side was lined with cheering spectators.  Blurry fist pumps and arms reaching out to me came into focus for those last footsteps.  It was all the strength I could muster to raise up my hands to meet their high-fives running by.  In sixteen hours and 24 minutes, almost awaking from a dream, I hear, “Dustin Tester – You are an ironman”.  I felt like collapsing the second I crossed the finish line.  I was immediately draped with a foil blanket, a medal, and cameras aimed at me.

If there was one thing I learned from my Ironman experience is that the power of the human will comes not only from the mind, but from the heart.  Those athletes really touched my heart and gave me strength to finish this Ironman.  Witnessing their strength boosted mine.  I was also so thankful to have a supportive girlfriend to inspire me to do this race.  She believed in me from the start and pushed me to train when I was doubtful and overwhelmed.    I learned that I’m much more than the “limitations” of my ankle injury and my ADD brain. As the Ironman saying goes…”Complete an ironman, and you have bragging rights for life.”   I don’t plan to brag, but I plan to take this inner strength with me for life and hopefully inspire others to do the same.